Cutting Styles


The two concepts of shape and cutting style are often described by one term in the jewelry trade. For example, when a jeweler uses the term baguette, he's referring to a square¬ cornered, rectangular-shaped diamond with rows of step-like facets . If the two long sides of the baguette taper inward, it is called a tapered baguette An emerald cut is a rectangular stone with step-like facets that looks like its corners were clipped off Usually emerald cuts have more facets or steps than baguettes.

The GIA (Gemological Institute of America) has simplified the description of cutting styles by limiting them to three basic types:
Step Cut Has rows of facets that resemble the steps of a staircase and are usually four-sided and elongated. The emerald and baguette cuts are examples of the step cut. Sometimes the term e»Terald cut is used as a synonym for step cut. For example, jewelers sometimes ask for an emerald-cut triangle, meaning step-cut triangle . Nor¬mally, an emerald cut is rectangular or square. The step cut is fre¬quently used for colored transparent gemstones.


Brilliant Cut Has triangular-, kite-, or lozenge-shaped facets that radiate outward around the stone. Examples of these are the pear, oval, heart, and marquise and the standard round brilliant Three other modifications of the brilliant-cut style are the old mine cut, the old European cut and the single cut The old mine and old European cuts, often seen in antique jewelry, have 58 facets and are characterized by a high crown, a small table, and a large culet. Old mine cuts, however, are squarish, whereas old European cuts are round.

The single cut, which has 17 or 18 facets, is used on very small diamonds. The jewelry trade generally refers to round diamonds with 18 facets as single cuts and to those with 58 facets as full cuts.


Mixed Cut Has both step- and brilliant-cut facets. The pavilion, for example, can be step cut and the crown can be brilliant cut, but the step- and brilliant-cut facets can also be scattered over the diamond. This cut is occasionally used on diamonds and often used on colored trans¬parent gemstones.

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