| Cutting
Styles
When you shop for diamonds, you probably won't hear the salespeople
talk about step cuts or mixed cuts. You will, however, hear
them talk about brilliant cuts and emerald cuts. They may
also tell you about Radiant, Trillions, trillions, Quadrillions,
and princess cuts-styles which have been introduced within
about the last twenty-rive years. To better understand what
they're talking about, you can refer to the following descriptions
and photos:
Radiant
A rectangular- or square-shaped diamond with 70 facets cut
in the brilliant style (fig. 3.18). It was designed and patented
by Mr. Henry Gross bard of New York and is marketed by the
I. Starck Co., Inc. of Chicago. It was first introduced in
Hong Kong in 1976. A square or rectangular diamond cut in
this style can display almost as much brilliance as a round,
full-cut diamond.
Trielle
A triangular-shaped diamond with 50 facets that are precision
cut in the brilliant style. It was developed in the 1950's
by Leon Finker and patented in 1978 under the name of L.F.
Industries in New York. Due to their unusually large surface
area, a 1-carat Trielle can look as large as a 1 1/2-carat
round diamond. They have the added advantage of being easy
to match because of their symmetrical sides and consistent
proportions. Prior to 1991, the patented brand name for the
Trielle was the Trillion.
Trilliant
Resembles the Trielle but is often cut to retain as much weight
as possible from the original diamond crystal. The facet arrangement
and proportions may vary from one Trilliant to another. Figure
3.19 is an example of a well-cut Trilliant.
Quadrillion
A square-shaped diamond with 49 facets that are precision
cut in the brilliant style with a raised star pattern on the
pavilion (figs. 3.20 & 3.21). It was patented and trademarked
by Ambar Diamonds of Los Angeles in 1981. Quadrillions are
usually channel set, creating a solid line of brilliance along
a mounting.
Princess
Cut Resembles the Quadrillion but is not cut to the same quality
standards. It is usually cut to save as much weight as possible
of the original diamond crystal in order to lower the per
carat cost. Conse¬quently, it may have a high crown, thick
girdle, or bulging pavilion (Chapter Seven explains these
cutting deviations). The princess cut is also called the multi-faceted
square diamond or the square brilliant cut, especially when
used in men's jewelry.
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