Diamond Shapes and Cutting Styles


How big you want your diamond to look. A lot of people want their diamond to look as big as possible, even if it doesn't weigh much. Fancy shapes generally look bigger than round diamonds of equal weight, particularly if they are elongated like the marquise and pear. The Trielle is also known for looking bigger than it weighs. The people that market it claim that it looks nearly 50% larger than a round brilliant diamond of the same weight because it is cut wide and shallow.

The shape and size of your hand. The shape of your diamond can give the illusion that your hand looks longer or shorter than it is. For example, a long, thin diamond set lengthwise along your finger can make your hand look longer and thinner. A broad diamond or long one set horizontally across your finger can make your hand look broader and shorter. Try on a few shapes and see which one flatters your hand the most.

The color and clarity of the diamond (how flawed it is). The shape and cutting style that can best mask flaws and yellow tints is the round brilliant. In emerald cuts and baguettes, the flaws become the most obvious. What this means is that a low quality, less expensive, round brilliant can look very good to the naked eye, whereas a step-cut, rectangular or triangular diamond of the same quality might look unacceptable.

The availability of the shapes. Even if you like a specific shape, you may find that there is a very poor selection in the size or quality you want to buy. For example, you might have a hard time finding a well-shaped one-carat marquise and end up buying another shape instead.

If you have your heart set on a specific shape, ask your jeweler to find it for you. He can call around to various diamond dealers until he finds the diamond that meets your needs, but be prepared to give him the time he needs to find your stone.

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