Judging Craftsmanship


The diamonds are poorly set if.With the unaided eye, it's obvious that the prongs or beads holding the diamonds are of different shapes, sizes, and styles You can hardly see the diamonds because they are covered by so much metal from the beads, prongs, or bezel.

The diamonds are loose and move around. This is a fairly common problem and, usually, it's easily corrected. If setters put too much pressure on a diamond, it can chip or crack, so sometimes they go to the other extreme and don't secure stones well enough.

Once you start wearing a ring and knocking it about, do not expect the diamonds to remain secure. You should have them checked at least every six months or whenever you hear your ring rattle or click as it is shaken or as a diamond is tapped next to your ear. It would be unreasonable to blame a jeweler when a diamond falls out of your ring a year after you buy it.

You can expect rings with clusters of tiny diamonds to start losing their stones a couple months after you buy them if you give them a lot of everyday abuse such as knocking them on counters, dishes, and furniture or wearing them in hot tubs where they expand and then contract. Therefore, you should either reserve such rings for special occasions or else have them frequently checked.

A ring is poorly polished or plated if.
The inside of the ring is rough and unpolished.
The outside of the ring has sharp and rough edges or points that cut you or rip your clothing.
The metal securing your diamonds is polished away.
With the naked eye you can see silver-colored spots or lines on the yellow-gold portion of the ring. This sometimes occurs when rings are rhodium plated.

The ring looks obviously dull, old, or dirty, yet it's brand new.


If you find a ring that is just what you want but that has one of the above problems, ask to have it corrected and feel confident that you are making a reasonable request.

Perhaps you wish to go beyond spotting unacceptable work and would like to recognize top-quality craftsmanship. While reading the discussion of this in the next section, you should realize that you may never find a ring that meets all of the criteria outlined below. In fact, people that insist on these standards of craftsmanship could be considered over-critical, unless they are willing to pay premium prices.

Normal for several

Patterns are intentionally

Ring that meets

Die-struck mounting

Aesthetically pleasing appearance


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